SOUTH BOUND IN THE BAHAMAS

We've only just begun. This is the landmark lighthouse at the entry to Nassau Harbor. We arrived early on Tuesday 12/30 after a good overnight run from Key Biscayne.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Our celebration was pretty mild compared to the big Junkanoo downtown. We did watch the fireworks displays that we could see from the marina.

 

The first two photos are of the display at Atlantis.

 

The last is from another resort on Paradise Island. Hand held time exposures can be tough and I moved the camera a little, but I like the boats in the foreground.

A new mask for Lynn. It's nice to have one in the SCUBA bag and one in the snorkel gear bag. (Yes they're different)

A rainbow at Shroud Cay

We snorkeled around Emerald Rock at Warderick Wells. Isolated coral heads with good sea life. We didn't take underwater photos but here we are back in the Chase Boat, our dinghy.

In the belly of the whale? Lynn poses beside the sperm whale skeleton on the beach at Warderick

OUR ANNUAL TRIP UP BOO BOO HILL

1. The little lizard guards the trail. He challenged us until we were quite close.

 

2. Look Ma, no knee brace. Nearly all our past pictures of George on Boo Boo hill feature a big ugly knee brace on his right knee. This year he has a whole new knee and it is working great.

 

3. Each year it seems our old sign has disappeared and we have to make a new one. We always think that while home in the summer we will fabricate a new nice one and bring it, but every year we forget.

 

4. George and Lynn near the top of Boo Boo Hill with Exuma Sound behind us.

 

On our first full day as volunteer coordinators of the Hawksbill Cay mooring fields, we heard a radio call from kayakers on Hawksbill trying to reach Park Headquarters. Lynn responded.

They were Paul and Robin, a couple from Boulder, CO who were kayaking through the Exumas. The wind had been blowing hard enough to limit their progress and they needed to get to Warderick and then Staniel to make their flight home.

They paddled to our boat and breakfasted with us while waiting for the Park boat to pick them up.

We were glad to be of some minimum assistance and really enjoyed meeting them.

If you have a little sugar in your hand, you can make lots of new friends. We are feeding the Bananaquits at Park HQ. These charming little birds have very long tongues, and they lay their beaks sideways to lap up sugar.  They can feed from a hummingbird feeder, but have to perch to do so.  Their song is more of a series of clicks and chirps, and they are classified as a type of honeycreeper.  They were a favorite of Ian Fleming (the James Bond author), who had a place in the Caribbean named Goldeneye, and was an avid bird watcher.

After leaving Warderick we sailed to Staniel Cay, filled with fuel and had a nice dinner ashore. Then we anchored "Between the Majors" a protected area between Big Majors Spot and Little Majors Spot islands. Winds were a little over 20 knots from a westerly direction and it was pretty choppy out.

Next stop was Black Point, one of our favorite places. After 3+ weeks we were about to run out of clothes. The laundry bags just about filled the dinghy. Not much room for Lynn to get in.

We watched CNN and had lunch at Lorraine's Cafe.

If you read our reports you will know that the trip from Black Point to Lee Stocking Island was rough, but we have no pictures. Once at Lee Stocking we spent about a week in beautiful protected waters.

There are many small cays around. One set is called Tug and Barge rocks. It is easy to see why.

We took the trail up Perry's Peak, the highest spot in the Exumas. From there, there are many great views. We also took some pictures of other cruisers in transit.

Where ever we are, we are suckers for the beautiful sun sets. Here are shots of a couple from Lee Stocking.

 

 

 

Toby had time to run on the beach. He enjoys it so much he doesn't want to stop until he is ready to drop. We take water for him but even then his tongue is hanging out.

He wants to be in the middle of everything. He likes it when we are all so close to each other that we are in contact.

We toured the Perry Institute Caribbean Marine Research Center located on Lee Stocking. The link to their web site is in our reports.

 

The labs are quiet right now, seems the scientists tend to come during the summer months.

 

The grounds are pretty and if I were a marine scientist, I would be thinking of lots of research I needed to do here.

 

In George Town for a few days to get some items shipped in. A tug and barge are tied to the dock. A Bahamian barge man rests as he waits for the next task.

 

When we arrived, there was no fuel at the dock. Several days latter, the fuel tanker arrived so now we can buy fuel before we depart George Town.

Last year we spent a lot of time at the marina at Emerald Bay while we dealt with family health issues. This year it is closed. We feel sorry for the many Bahamians forced out of work due to the weak economy and will miss this particular spot, but, clinging to the past, we felt the Bahamas were being over developed and we are not sorry to see the pace of construction slowing down.

There is now a chain across the entrance to Emerald Bay. Speaking to one of the prior employees he reported the rumor that there is a letter of understanding/intent to buy on it and maybe it will reopen sometime soon.

We have a new water proof electric dog training collar for Toby. We hope we will have better control when he is on the beach and off the leash. That should lead to him having more time off leash and lots more playing.

After a game of fetch in the morning, we was reluctant to give up the ball so carried it all the way to the boat and didn't drop it until some food appeared.

We don't get many meals off the boat and those are usually pretty simple. With Lynn as Provisioner and Chef it is hard to find food ashore as we got aboard. Still, for Valentine we did something special having dinner at St. Francis Resort. Our server took this photo for us.

Our Wi-Fi availability in the George Town area is worse this year. We posted this picture from the J&K Computer store. This is what a high tech outlet looks like in George Town.

AT THE BEACH

While on the mooring in Hole #2 we are close to the most popular beach in the area and hub of most cruiser activities, Volleyball Beach. One of the most photographed items is the pole with distances to various locales. While we were here this year this one was replaced with a new taller pole with more signs. All an activity of the cruisers.  The white structure is the Conch Shack, where you can get a delicious conch salad, fresh from the shell.  The stacked boxes are cases of Kalik, the most popular beer in the Bahamas.

 

While white folks on boats are the largest contingent on the beach, Bahamians enjoy it as well. If it is too warm on the beach, just move your chair into the water.

 

A big activity is called fun volleyball but should probably be called geezer volleyball. The rules seem to be, no spiking, no overhand service, and each side can hit the ball 4 times. If you don't think you can get your service over the net, you can move up closer. There is no attempt to set up a play, just get the ball back over the net

 

ST. FRANCIS RESORT

A nice facility but small for a place with such a grand name. Indoor activities tend to be centered here. There is a cozy restaurant (see our Valentine picture), a nice deck, a bar and a small conference area. Texas Hold'em and Trivia nights are held here. The upper photo overlooks much of the fleet and Volleyball Beach (on the left).

 

The lower shot shows dinghies crowding the dock for trivia night.

There is a mural painted and maintained by cruisers at the Chat & Chill. Boats write their names around the border. Every couple of years, the border is repainted and names are added anew. Ours is in the upper right hand corner.

George hanging in port engine compartment to adjust tension on fan belt. Alternators certainly work better when the belt is tight enough to make them go around.

George coming out of Exuma Markets with his new girls friends :-). Actually it was a good day. They had eggs. We were getting low and the last supply boat only brought four cases which were quickly gone.

On a good weather day like this, a ton of dinghies brave the waves to get into town.

The music section at Beach Church.

After Beach Church, we stopped at the Chat & Chill for the weekly Pig Roast. Friends on Margareta took this photo for us.

The pig is roasted in a large grill right on the deck.

We were early getting in line but still had to wait a while. Lynn is on the left at the end of the line.

Each year the major fund raiser for the Regatta and donations to the Family Island Regatta is the sale of T-shirts. On the beach they take pictures of the "Cruiser Rainbow" with folks from boats wearing the shirt of the year arranged by color. Here they are lining up by the Chat & Chill.

Lynn is in pink in the front row.

As Toby ages he seems to become more and more vocal. He has always "sung" in the dinghy headed to shore. We tell people that since he is a Swiss Mountain Dog, he is yodeling. As the time grows near to go, he yodels, sings, talks, whatever, expressing his desire to get going.

In the lower shot, he is in the dinghy waiting to depart in his thematic red accessories.

The vast majority of dinghies here are inflatable with by far most of those being gray. It is nice to see a genuine hand built, wooden dinghy with nor motor, only oars. There are still a few traditionalist left, thank God.

Our favorite spectator event is the coconut harvest. One soft dinghy sans motor, 4 people, 4 swim fins, 4 life jackets, 1 bucket, compete for points.

They have a running start down the beach to their dinghies, then out to pick up hundreds of coconuts set afloat up wind. As they go by boats, stealth supplies are launched into the water behind them. This gives a small chance to those less able to make a quick crossing to the mother lode.

Points are awarded on number collected and then extra points were available on the "guts and butts" and coconut toss. Lots of fun to watch.

Our Threesome at "Beach Golf."

Q: How much can you have with one club, when the "fairway" is one long sand trap, the worlds 2nd largest water hazard is to the right, and a links type rough is to the left?

A: Lots!

Lynn does the vast majority of galley duties but occasionally George steps in. Here he is preparing his famous Penne Ala Norcina Ala George. Oh yes, and having a glass of wine.

We take lots of sunset pictures but on the full moon this month we had a really neat moon set. The rising sun turned the sky pink so we had a pink moon. Lovely.

It is called Cruisers' Regatta. With all the other activities you might wonder if any racing actually happens. Well, it does.

Water line is not always the winner. In the top photo, Blue Blazer blows by a much larger boat.

The graceful boats, white sails and blue water make for beautiful scenes.

After a shower, George relaxes with a glass of wine and a book. Toby can't resist the opportunity to laze on his lap.

This Admiral catamaran anchored behind us near Volleyball Beach. The two boys were playing all over the boat. Here we see them in the sail pack. We miss our grandkids and feel it even more when we see kids on the beach or on boats.

We spent an unusual amount of time in George Town this year but finally timing and weather coincide for us to leave soon. We received a beautiful farewell sunset over Great Exuma. Next stop Conception Island.

On to pictures North Bound in the Bahamas