Spanish Wells and the Abacos



 

The entry channel to Spanish Wells, though well marked can be tricky and with shallow, hard reefs abounding, a mistake can be costly.

The settlement is more prosperous than most other places in the Bahamas with fishing being the main source of revenue. The waterfront can appear deserted when the fleet is out or crowded when they are in.

Lobster is the big crop and the season closes on April 1. This photos was taken 3/29 so most of the boats are out trying for one last good catch. If you have had a lobster at Red Lobster, it probably came from Spanish Wells.

The kids all attend the "All Age School" on the island although I assume some high school kids go off island since I saw few of them. Perhaps they are already on the fishing boats.



 

Houses are typically block construction with stucco and are well maintained whether they are large of small. Usually white trimmed with some bright color, there are occasional other hues.



 

People wonder why we carry so many provisions with us when we leave on these extended cruises. Cost is a big reason.

In the Top photo, George stands holding $75 worth of groceries (no big ticket stuff).

Below Lynn holds $80 worth of sea food. Now it is 5 1/2 pounds of stone crab claws and some grouper steaks, but still. . .



 

A manatee has adopted the waterfront, or perhaps it's the other way around. Dubbed Rita, she is pregnant and per a marine biologist brought in to check her out she is due any day.

The community brings in large cabbages to make sure she has plenty to eat and the school kids hang out at the docks waiting for her to appear.

When she does, they scramble to feed her.

It is hard to get a manatee picture because there is seldom much of them out of the water.

Rita's nose will pop up to take a piece of floating cabbage but just as often takes it from the hand of one of the kids.

It may be wrong to feed wild animals, but the community has really taken Rita to heart. She is entirely free to come and go as she pleases, and often does take off on her own. Otherwise, she wouldn't be pregnant.

She has her own Facebook Page. Click here to see it.



 

On Wednesday 3/31 we hired a pilot to take us out of Spanish Wells and through the reefs to the Ridley Head waypoint. While the pilot cost $40 it saves over 10 miles on the trip, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Obviously we didn't need him through the channel in town, but once out of marked channels, local knowledge is a must. They could probably put in a couple of navigation aids and make it easy for cruisers to come and go, but then look at all the money those pilots would lose.

Once outside and way from the effects of shore we had smooth water with a long swell. Very much the kind of day we used to enjoy on the Pacific.



 

I took this picture to use in our seminars. Each year you take your boat out of the US, then you must by a customs decal. These are ours. They aren't a lot of money and it is sure a hassle if you don't have it. We didn't know about the requirement the first year until we were already out of country. Something good for new cruisers to know.



 

 

Welcome to Hope Town. It could just be the most photogenic village in the Bahamas.

 

 

Its most notable land mark is the lighthouse. This one actually still has a lighthouse keeper and the light is a kerosene lamp as opposed to electric. Most of the lighthouses in the Bahamas have been converted to automated electrics. Perhaps more efficient but less romantic than the old technology.

 

 

Sunspot Baby is moored very near the lighthouse. The harbor is small and well protected but there is no longer room to anchor since it is filled with mooring balls. That gives better use of the limited space and is safer than having boats at anchor dragging in high winds.

 

There is a charming waterfront with shops, cafes, and houses. Most of the houses are rental cottages.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The beach is a short walk from the harbor on the protected side in the Sea of Abaco, to the open Atlantic. This shot is right behind the blue house above.

 

 

We found a cottage we thought we might afford but it seems to be all boarded up :-)

 

 

Like the rest of the Bahamas, the residents are largely very religious. This is St. James church, which carries the tradition of Caribbean colors. Someone can be seen cleaning the entry after the Easter crowds.

 

"Enter Into His Gates With Praise."

 

 

 

We stopped at "Munchies" for lunch. Lynn had the lobster salad in the shade of a large tree.

 



 

 

A day of diving going out of Hope Town with Froggies Dive Shop.

Lynn and George after the first dive. Lynn skipped the second after a hard swim in the first.

 

 

George with Dive Master Scooby. Look at the size of that guy's hand.

 

As usual the last diver back to the boat is George. If it weren't for the wave splashing in his face you could see him smiling.

 

Back on the boat and ready to stow gear.

 

 

 

 

The dive boat motored right by Sunspot Baby on the way back in.

It was nice to get wet again.



 

We grow "green hair" along the water line just above the bottom paint. About once per month we give it a cleaning. Here we see George in snorkel gear doing the job in White Sound, Green Turtle Cay, Abacos, Bahamas. We let it go a bit too long this time and it was a booger to get clean.



 

We're on the dock at Bluff House on Green Turtle for a while We walked around the resort property a bit. The old Bluff House is atop the ridge with a nice view of both the White Sound and Sea of Abaco sides.

The top photo is looking down the hill to the marina. Sunspot Baby can be seen at the dock.

 

The lower photo is looking down the island toward New Plymouth, the only town on Green Turtle Cay.



 

 

While "eating our dockage" at the weekly Bahamian Night a local Junkanoo group performed. It's all percussion, bells and drums. We have seen other groups include whistles.

No masks of fancy hats here, just shiny outfits.



 


On Tuesday 4/13 we rented a golf cart with Andy and Sally from Sequel and toured the island. It is very picturesque. The top photo is a panorama of the settlement New Plymouth from across the harbor.

In down town, the old streets are too narrow for two way traffic so they are one way only.

 

 

Many of the buildings are old but well maintained. Here we see the post office through a fence covered with bouganvilla.

 

On the way into town, we met the horse Joe who stopped us to see if we had any goodies for him. Sally's body language says she wishes he wouldn't be quite so friendly.

 

 

If you want one of those valuable antique anchors folks display in their yards, there is one laying in the harbor at low tide protected by no more than a tern looking for lunch.

 

A local craftsman builds model boats for sale. This shot is inside his tiny work shop.

 

 

At the dinghy dock, there is a sign that says "Remember These Shores." We certainly will. The small building behind us and to the right is the local fire station.

 

They have a cute logo on the side of the fire station.

 

 

On the way back to the boats, we stopped at three different beaches to do a little beach combing.

 

There is a risk to beach combing because there are so many Portuguese men of war jelly fish washed ashore. This can sting you even after they are dead the the sting is MAJOR. We were careful and came away with only pictures of them.

 



 

 

From the pictures, one might assume that the cruising life is just one happy hour after another. Not so, well at least not quite. This sharing of good times is at the old Bluff House Lodge atop the highest point on Green Turtle.

 

We were treated to music by Rob on Sojourn.

 

 

Lynn poses on the deck with New Plymouth in the background. Her hair is a good indication of how the wind was blowing.



 

 

The manager of Bluff House brought out old newspaper articles featuring the treacherous Whale Passage.

 



 

 

Leaving Bluff House and sailing to other anchorages to stage up for a crossing back to Florida, We sailed for a bit near Double Wide who was double reefed.

 

They took this shot of us zooming along under a reefed Genoa in 2 foot seas.



 

 

Sunday morning 4/17 we were a Crab Cay and delaying departure to arrive after sunrise and on the flooding tide at Ft. Pierce. We call this our last sunrise, although it is really just early morning.

 

 

Sunset Trader passed us as we sailed across the banks, and took this shot of us.

 

 

 

We also photographed them.

 

 

Toby snuggles into the crook of Georges legs as they both go off watch for 3 hours.

 

 

Lynn captured our last Bahama sunset of the season and was treated to a beauty.

    Next: East Coast Northbound